“Turning back is not an option you ever considered when you made your initial plan to grab a peak.”
The decision to turn back from climbing Mount Osceola was made easier by an experience I had years earlier on Grand Teton. There, sadly, a climber lost his life attempting the dangerous final section of The Grand without any assistance. It had been raining for over eight hours non-stop, and the climb was slick and perilous, to say the least. When we came upon a lonely backpack wedged under a large boulder before the last section, we could feel something was off. It was at this juncture that we had to make our own decision about whether to continue. Our party was somewhat split, but the presence of the backpack tipped the scales.
On Grand Teton’s Upper Saddle
Over the course of a few days, we climbed some incredible terrain. Our guide took us on training climbs to see if we were ready for the more challenging routes up Grand Teton, and he led us over some truly harrowing sections. At one point, the climbing rope snagged on an overhang, and I had to climb back down over a precipice to free it. Dropping my feet over the cliff’s edge—with nothing to step onto—is a feeling I’ll never forget.
“It was the only time I’ve ever been one hundred percent, completely and utterly terrified while climbing.”
For the final ascent, we started out in the wee hours of the morning, before first light. When the predawn light finally came, it shocked us to see our steps were dangerously close to cliff’s edge. We didn’t take any pictures until we felt we were in safe area with sure footing!
Over the course of the day, the rain never let up. It peppered us, constantly shifting between sleet, a snowy mix, and regular rain. We were a soggy bunch.
Summiting Grand Teton’s Enclosure
At the site of the lonely backpack, it was clear we were the last remaining climbing party on Grand Teton—the weather had turned everyone else back. Understandably so. After deciding not to ascend the main peak, we chose instead to summit “The Enclosure,” a subpeak of Grand Teton believed to be the site of an ancient Native American structure—a group of rocks arranged in a circle at the summit.
“The presence of the lonely backpack didn’t make any sense at all and kind of gave me the willies.”
Not reaching the true summit was disappointing, but hitting the Enclosure lifted our spirits. Our guide, showing no concern for the backpack we’d found, told us stories along the way. He seemed more jubilant than ever—an odd contrast to his earlier warnings about the risks of climbing. It was as if some kind of training had kicked in, telling him to stay upbeat for the sake of the team. I suppose from where we were, he also felt there wasn’t much we could do about the backpack until we knew more.
Grand Teton Descent
After we returned to camp at the Upper Saddle, we learned that a hiker was indeed, missing. Our guide left to join the search party, and we descended the rest of the way on our own. When we finally made it back down to base, they confirmed that our climbing party recorded the highest ascent in the state of Wyoming that day. We didn’t know it yet, but the hiker who lost his life fell from a spot only 50-100 feet above from where we stopped, before falling into Valhalla Canyon.
Butt-sliding our way down the snow on Grand Teton
In the last two hours of the descent, the earth transitioned from winter back to summer, and we were relieved that the drenching would soon end. We were also still blissfully unaware of the terrible fate of the missing hiker. It wouldn’t be until two days later, when reading the newspaper, that we would finally learn what happened. A stark reminder of the risks.
Grand Teton Enclosure Ascent Details
- Grand Teton Enclosure Height: 13,280 Feet
- Route (Out and Back): Lupine Meadows to Lower Saddle to Upper Saddle
- Elevation Gain: 7,038 Feet
- Total Distance: 14+ Miles over two days (camped at the Lower Saddle the night before final ascent)
- Trailhead Location: We went with Exum Guides, and the meet-up location may vary, but typically start from the Lupine Meadows Trailhead
More from 4000s by 40 & Why You Should Use a Guide
📖 Want to learn more? You’ll find the full story in 4000s by 40.
📸 Looking for more photos? Check out the 4000s by 40 Visual Companion for a full archive of trail views and summit shots from the book.
⚠ If you’re planning to climb Grand Teton, you should go with a guide. This mountain is no joke, and conditions can turn quickly. A guide not only improves your chances of reaching the summit safely but also ensures you make smart decisions along the way.
Sunset in the Tetons