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View from Starr King

Mount Waumbek & Starr King: A Peaceful White Mountains Hike

“Because mountains are where few people journey, and it’s this lack of people that can make the earth feel new again. Discoverable again.”
— from 4000s by 40

The photos on this page coincide with Chapter 6 from 4000s by 40, in what was one of the most peaceful days I’ve ever had in the White Mountains. For more about the 4000-footers and the peace they bring, you can get your copy of the book [here]. To go along with the photos below, I’ve also added a quick retelling of events, along with quotes from the book, to give some context and flavor from the chapter.

The Climb

With my gear figured out and a successful summit behind me, I headed out to Mount Waumbek (4006′) with a flood of excitement. Here, I finally felt free to let my mind wander and immerse myself in the experience—to be fully present, take it all in, and hear myself think. The subconscious became conscious, and I felt more firmly connected to the reasons that had drawn me to this journey in the first place. Along the way, I passed over Mount Starr King, a scenic peak known for its mysterious fireplace remains and a stunning view of the Presidential Range.

The Starr King Trail

It was an early start to the day, and before I reached the trailhead I pulled over on the side of the road in Jefferson to catch the sunrise lifting over an open field. The road was empty, and the sky felt like a gift, cooked up special for the hike about to unfold. To get to Waumbek, you have to cross the summit of Starr King first, which used to be on New Hampshire’s 52 With a View list (it was recently demoted in favor of another peak). The “52” are smaller mountains that offer beautiful views without requiring a 4,000-foot climb, and I was excited to see one.

Sunrise before Waumbek
Sunrise in Jefferson, NH
Starr King Waumbek Trail Sign
The start of the Starr King Trail

Starr King & Waumbek: A Room With a View

When you arrive at Starr King, you are greeted by an old stone fireplace—the remnants of a cabin that once stood there. Even on a cold January day, it gives the summit a welcoming feel, as do the views. The featured image at the top of this page captures a bit of the landscape you can expect to see. There’s something about that fireplace though—it makes you feel like you’ve landed where Frodo Baggins may have stopped to find his last bit of sanctuary on his way to Mordor.

Starr King Fireplace

At the summit of Starr King is the remnants of an old fireplace.

The Summit of Mount Waumbek

At the summit of Waumbek, I rested on a log in what felt less like a mountain summit, and more like a tranquil forest with perfectly spaced trees. The earth was quiet. I listened and it listened back. There are few moments, if any, that I can remember being more at peace in the mountains than this one. It was here on Waumbek, only a few mountains into the beginning of my journey, that I gained full clarity on what this was all about.

Snowshoes on Mount Waumbek

Summit of Mount Waumbek

“Everything—the air, the trees, the snow—was absolutely still. Time stopped. Like when you’re a kid playing hide-and-seek, hiding behind your mother’s clothes in the closet; the only sound you hear is your own breathing, which you try to quaff so you don’t get found.”

Getting Out There: 4000s by 40

Want to read more about the 4000-footers and the adventures they inspired? 4000s by 40 is a journey through the mountains—and the reasons we feel drawn to climb them.

For photos of all the peaks, check out the 4000s by 40 Visual Companion

Mount Waumbek Ascent Details

  • Route (Out and Back): Starr King Trail
  • Elevation Gain: 2,654 Feet (Including the trek over Starr King)
  • Miles to Summit: 3.6
  • Total Distance: 7.2 Miles
  • Trailhead Location: The Starr King Trail is in Jefferson, NH.

Exploring Mount Waumbek: Trail Reports & Peakbagging Resources

After Mount Tom, I highly recommend ascending Mount Waumbek if you are looking to climb the 4000-footers in the winter. The grade is very manageable, and easy on the feet. On this hike I wore snowshoes the entire time and didn’t have to work too hard. Not the way you do on some trails where the snow fills in so frequently you get stuck breaking trail.

If you are looking for more resources on Mount Waumbek, these are a few helpful sites:

  • Peakbagger.com – Mount Waumbek – A great place to track your 4000-footer progress, log summits, and see detailed elevation data.
  • The Mountain Wanderer – Steve Smith writes a blog reporting on climbing conditions in New Hampshire. He is the owner of The Mountain Wanderer Bookstore in Lincoln.
  • AMC Trail Maps – It’s always a good idea to have a reliable map.
Hiking Poles on Mount Waumbek

Peace on Waumbek

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4000s by 40 3D Cover

Love the mountains? 4000s by 40 is a story of missteps, hard-earned lessons, and the mountains that shape us.
[Find it here]

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