“Whenever I look back on a climb, it’s always the challenges and the effort I recall more fondly than the views from the summit itself. It’s the climb that fills my being.”
— from 4000s by 40
This page reflects scenes from Chapter 13 in 4000s by 40. This was a training hike to prepare me for bigger plans to come. Namely—The Presidential Traverse and the Carter-Moriah Range. The day drew blood—and I loved it. To read the whole story, you can check it out [here]. And to go along with the photos below, I’ve also added a quick retelling of events, along with quotes, to give a small sense of what you’ll find in the book. Thanks for reading!
Going the Long Way
I could have picked a shorter route, but I wanted to start preparing for some bigger ascents that I had planned for the summer. If you only want to hike Passaconaway and Whiteface, you can start up Dicey’s Mill Trail. This route is a much more efficient and energy-saving approach. But I needed something bigger. Running parallel to Dicey’s Mill is a set of peaks along what’s known as the Wonalancet Range Trail. This route suited my needs perfectly because it required summiting three smaller peaks: Wonalancet, Hibbard, and Nanamocomuck, in addition to Passaconaway and Whiteface.
Some of my future climbs would require summiting six peaks or more—bigger and more challenging than these—so this excursion would make for good training ground.
As what was becoming custom, I arrived at the trailhead around sunrise.
The Wonalancet Range Trail: Mount Wonalancet & Mount Hibbard
The hike up Wonalancet started off a little spooky. It was quiet. A little too quiet. Realizing that this was the first ascent of my mission that wasn’t in the winter, I started to imagine that bears might be waking up. I kept my head on a swivel. Instead of a bear though, I got jump-scared by every grouse in the state of New Hampshire.
After shouting some expletives, I wasn’t worried about a bear attack anymore, and eventually came to this beautiful rock, decorated with ferns. It was so lovely a spot, I decided to sit down and enjoy it, and the accompanying sun. It made me feel a little John-Muir like, who has confessed to having deep conversations with rocks, even going so far as to asking them questions about “from whence they came.” I didn’t start talking to the rock, but I was starting to see Muir a little more clearly. And I may have given the rock a pat.
The Walden Trail to Nanamocomuck and Passaconaway
When I discovered that I was going to run into a mountain called Nanamocomuck, I giggled at the thought of it. I was so excited. Who even knows about this mountain? Not many, I’d wager. Following Mount Hibbard, I had a clear view of it, and using my ViewRanger app (now discontinued), I confirmed its location. The Walden Trail was a fun trail to hike too, with some narrow lines along massive granite.
It was still cool out in the April sun, and I appreciated my Black Diamond gloves as the day wore on. As I approached Passaconaway’s summit, I also gave thanks for the time I was getting to do this—the space to step away from the everyday grind and just be in the mountains.
The wall on Walden Trail.
The Rollins Trail to Whiteface
When I left Passaconaway’s summit, I was feeling great, and the singing bug caught me as I headed down the icy trails. Having grown quite accustomed to microspikes, I was feeling confident that my traction would hold over any conditions, but as Luke tells the emperor in Star Wars, “Your overconfidence is your weakness.”
Without warning, my feet flew out from under me, and I slid fifteen to twenty feet down the slope before slamming my feet into a fallen tree. With a long hike still ahead, there was nothing to do but keep going, though I sure felt it in my knees for the rest of the day.
As I approached the summit of Whiteface, to my surprise, another ski mountain came into view. This time Gunstock. I never realized when I set out to climb the 4000-footers that I’d be taking a tour of New Hampshire’s ski mountains as well. Disappointingly, the actual summit of Whiteface was a cairn nestled in the trees, so I quickly departed and made my way to a subpeak called the Whiteface Ledges.
Well, that’s disappointing.
Whiteface Ledges
The views only got better and better as I started the descent from Mount Whiteface over to “The Ledges.” From here you can get the closest views of Gunstock Mountain and Lake Winnepesaukee.
If I was to choose a preferred route to do these two 4000-footers again, I think I’d elect to take the Blueberry Ledge Trail to Whiteface first, before looping up to Passaconaway. Then on the descent I’d take Dicey’s Mill down, since I haven’t tried that way. You gotta keep things fresh, ya know?
Return to Ferncroft Trailhead
When I arrived back at my truck, I had blood on my face from when a branch hit me on the descent, and my body was completely beat up. My knees ached from the fall, and I had to gingerly sit down in the driver’s seat. But despite the pain, I absolutely loved it. To me, the challenges I overcame were more invigorating than the views achieved. It was an epic day.
“Squeezing in time for yourself is critical for loving others, and a peakbagging list gives you a framework to find some ‘me time’ without having to dwell too long on how to get it.”
Into the Mountains
📸 Want to see more photos of 4000-footers? Check out the 4000s by 40 Visual Companion
📖 Want to learn more about the 4000-footers? Dig into 4000s by 40
Ascent Details: Mount Wonalancet, Hibbard, Nanamocomuck, Passaconaway & Whiteface
- Route (Loop Hike): Wonalancet Range Trail → Walden Trail → Rollins Trail → Blueberry Ledge Trail. This route covers six peaks in the Sandwich Range (if you include Whitefaces’s Ledges), offering steep climbs, ridge traverses, and remote forested sections.
- Elevation Gain: 4,103 feet
- Miles to First Summit (Wonalancet): Approximately 2 miles
- Total Distance: 13–15 miles round trip (depending on minor variations)
- Trailhead Location: Ferncroft Trailhead, Wonalancet, NH
This loop takes you over Mount Wonalancet, Mount Hibbard, Nanamocomuck, Mount Passaconaway, and Mount Whiteface, offering a challenging but rewarding journey through the White Mountains. The ascent via the Wonalancet Range Trail leads into a quiet and steep climb, while the Rollins Trail ridge traverse offers stunning views before descending via the Blueberry Ledge Trail.
Exploring the Wonalancet-Whiteface Loop: Trail Reports & Hiking Resources
This six-peak loop over Mount Wonalancet, Hibbard, Nanamocomuck, Passaconaway, Whiteface, and Whiteface Ledges offers a mix of steep climbs, wooded ridges, and rewarding viewpoints. Whether navigating the Wonalancet Range Trail’s quiet ascents, the Walden Trail’s tricky terrain, or the Rollins Trail’s scenic ridge, this hike delivers a remote and challenging adventure in the Sandwich Range.
If you’re planning this loop, here are some useful resources:
- 📍 Peakbagger.com – Passaconaway & Whiteface – Track your 4000-footer progress and access elevation data.
- 🗺 AMC Trail Maps – A reliable trail map is a must for this remote section of the Whites.
- 🥾 New England Trail Conditions – Check recent trip reports before heading out.
