The fam and I took our first full-family ski vacation out west last week, and of course, we had to climb something. It wasn’t even my idea, I swear! One of my kids led the charge, and to my unbounded delight, nobody resisted the idea. In fact, there was enthusiasm all around.
I had been to Park City years ago with my college buddies and, ever since then, I’ve wanted to share the place with my home crew. But the stars never aligned until now. There was always a scheduling conflict, an injury, or a health issue making it impossible for all of us to go. I’m very grateful it worked out that we could all go now, even if Utah is having one of the worst ski seasons on record.
Carrying skis to the top of “Upper Bowl”, looking down on Park City and Snyderville basin below.
Finding Good Snow off the 9990 Express
The conditions weren’t great, and certainly not what I remembered from my previous visit, but we found some good snow off the 9990 Express lift, which is where some of the highest terrain can be found on the mountain. Everything in the lower valley was stiff and crusty, but in the upper steeps, where the previous weeks’ snowfalls were heaviest, there was still plenty of soft stuff to play in.
Sticking with the idea that higher meant better, when we got off the 9990 Express, we decided to hike up to what one of the mountain crew called the “Upper Bowl.” I had climbed Murdock Peak and into Scott’s Bowl before, and had told the kids about it, but the Super Condor Express, which runs most of the way up to Murdock Peak, has only been opened for two days all year. No bueno. Thinking our chances of a good hike up were ruined, I didn’t expect much until luck presented the Upper Bowl.
Loved this mountain ridge view looking west back over Salt Lake City and the Oquirrh Mountains
Small Effort, Big Reward
Now let me be clear—this isn’t a big hike up. I don’t think it took us longer than ten minutes. It may feel like thirty minutes when you’re carrying skis on your shoulder, huffing and puffing at 10,000 feet, but it’s really only a ten-minute hike. Aiding our steps were the boot tracks of mountain warriors who came before us, chasing fresh snow and unique memories. These indentations make it easier to lock-step your way up the ridge and conserve your energy for the ski down. It’s a perfect spot to get a backcountry feel without having to go too far.
And yet, it feels like you went somewhere pretty far. Pretty—dare I say—epic? Sometimes we avoid taking on certain challenges because they are too big. Too daring. And sometimes we avoid challenges because we don’t think they’ll be worth the effort. Because they’re not big enough. But these little hikes up into ski bowls that are inaccessible by lift, stir something in you, no matter how far you have to go to reach them. They remind you that you are not limited to the boundaries set by others, and that your life, no matter what steps you take, is a unique experience.
Heading up Desolation Peak, Park City
On Desolation Peak
The summit at the end of the hike is called Desolation Peak, and it has some of the most beautiful views of the Wasatch Range. Here you can see Solitude Ski Resort on the other side of the ridge, Brighton as well, and a brilliant contrast of light and cloud over the surrounding valley. For 360 degrees, you have more views than you can remember, and we spent ten minutes here to take it all in—and to catch our breath.
I find that exertion of any kind—whether it’s a twenty-minute run, a six-hour hike, or a ten-minute trudge up a ridge in ski boots—is enough to make me more present and enjoy the space and time I’m in. In Park City this past week, the ski conditions were the worst I’ve ever seen in Utah, but we still went out. Still got after it. And still enjoyed the heck out of the day. The little hike up Desolation Peak turned the less-than-ordinary ski conditions into an extraordinary day, and it didn’t take much. Just a ten-minute hike where we got to experience a unique view together.
